Crisp kurtas and pyjamas are his off-duty look, while on festive occasions, he will be his dapper self in a bandhgala. Over the years, Saif Ali Khan has built his signature style. But fashion enthusiasts must have noticed the actor’s penchant for dhotis in the past few months. Last week, Khan sported a golden dhoti, paired with a red kurta, at the Ambanis’ Ganesh Chaturthi celebration. Soon, he was trolled by netizens who were taken aback by the pleated dhoti—while many wondered whether he was wearing “a paper dhoti”, one remarked, “What has happened to Saif Ali Khan? Where has his dressing sense gone?”

Kolkata-based designer Abhishek Roy, who dressed the star for the evening, says Khan personally loved the attire.

“Despite the trolling, Saif told me he was very happy with the look. Saif is good to work with. He doesn’t behave like a top star; he connects directly and not through his team. It is encouraging to have one of the top stars standing like a rock beside me when people were trolling his [look],” says Roy. 

Those familiar with this style of dhoti will know that it’s a common garment in West Bengal. The designer explains, “Saif wore a traditional Mayur Puchha dhoti from West Bengal. The material is brocade silk and has been woven in Benares. We are used to similar dhotis in Bengal, but people in the west and north wouldn’t know of it. Mayur Puchha dhoti carries forth the region’s craftsmanship, heritage and stories. Saif loves it also because it is pre-stitched and removes the need for draping, thus providing comfort and convenience.”

Roy’s association with Khan began last Diwali when the actor, keen to explore his Bengali roots, reached out to the designer.

“Saif was looking for something with Bengali aesthetics. He wanted to explore his mother’s [Sharmila Tagore] side of aesthetics. His brief was that it should be authentically classy and sleek. He doesn’t like too many embellishments on his outfits. We connected instantly during the first trial as he liked the materials [I used], like muslins from Murshidabad and Bangladesh. He liked what I designed for him last Diwali. Since then, I have been doing Saif’s personal outfits. He is choosy about the materials and cuts,” says the designer, who is curating the actor’s look for the upcoming Durga Puja.