Supernatural films have an otherworldly quality, and nobody is happier about it than the costume and production designers. After all, it gives them the freedom to reimagine the on-screen world and its characters. But designing the costumes for Bhool Bhulaiyaa 3 was a tricky affair for Niharika Bhasin. While the costume designer had to bring novelty to the horror comedy—starring Kartik Aaryan, Vidya Balan, Madhuri Dixit-Nene and Triptii Dimri—she also had to stay true to the character of Manjulika, which has become iconic over the years.

Did she attempt to reimagine the central character? “With Manjulika, it was important to honour what the audiences already connect with, but also offer a fresh take. We initially considered an Indo-western fusion, and grounding the look in traditional Indian aesthetics. Since the story is set in Bengal, we drew heavily from fabrics and textiles popular in Bengal, like Jamdani and Bishnupuri silk, to stay culturally true. Cultural elements are always the starting point for me. The challenge was blending these cultural references with the eerie aspects of the character. We created a unique saree-pant look for one of the songs; it gave a modern twist while maintaining traditional influences,” says Bhasin.

In the 2007 edition that kicked off the Bhool Bhulaiyaa franchise, Balan firmly established Manjulika as a revenge-seeking spirit who was wronged in her lifetime. What makes Anees Bazmee’s upcoming directorial venture exciting is that it has two Manjulikas, played by Balan and Dixit.

The costume designer shares, “Since there are two Manjulikas, we carefully crafted two distinct looks. In terms of colour palettes, one leans towards cooler tones, and the other towards warmer, richer tones. Their jewellery also plays a role in setting them apart, with one adorned in silver and the other in gold, symbolizing their differing economic statuses. We sometimes put both actresses in starkly different looks, and at other times, made them almost identical to heighten the suspense. Black, of course, plays a significant role in adding that eerie element to the frame.”

It helped that Balan knew the universe because of her earlier association. Bhasin says the actor had valuable inputs that helped perfect Manjulika’s look.

“Vidya has a deep knowledge of textiles, especially in sarees. She can often tell you exactly where a fabric is from, and its cultural significance. This kind of input helped me elevate the look because she brought her own intelligence and understanding to the character’s style.”