It’s always exciting to see a Vidya Balan movie. But Neeyat goes beyond that by bringing together a strong ensemble cast comprising Ram Kapoor, Shahana Goswami, Rahul Bose and Neeraj Kabi, among others. While having a diverse group of actors is a joy for any director, it poses a challenge to a stylist.

Seasoned stylist Aastha Sharma says she began by cracking the look of Balan, who plays a Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI) officer in the Anu Menon-helmed murder mystery. “Vidya Balan has only one costume throughout the film. So, it had to be perfect and utilitarian. Sweater, a hood, gloves, and layers—they all played a part in [bringing the look together],” she states.

It can be daunting to etch out distinct avatars for each character in an ensemble drama, but the writing aided Sharma.

“Neeyat was character-based when it came to designing costumes. Everyone had their own backstory, so their looks were decided keeping that in mind. Everyone except Vidya had two costume changes—one is a day outfit where everyone arrives at the bash, and then a party outfit for the night.”

While the leading lady’s no-nonsense character gave the stylist little to play with, she made up for it by running wild with Kapoor’s looks.

“Ram Kapoor had to be the flamboyant, rich, over-the-top king of his castle. We played with textures by using brocade in his tuxedo. His accessories were also on point,” elaborates Sharma, adding that the director’s clear vision made her job easier.