Debarati Sen (BOMBAY TIMES; August 9, 2020)

In a first, more than 100 Indian fashion designers have come together to support the weaver and embroiderer communities across the country with a fundraiser project that began this week and will go on till August 15. Reputed designers like Sabyasachi, Tarun Tahiliani, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Manish Malhotra, Anamika Khanna, Rahul Mishra, Monisha Jaising and Masaba are among those who have donated their clothes for a sale online to raise money for their artisan brothers, their ‘baradari’, and to empower them to become entrepreneurs themselves. Kareena Kapoor Khan, who has been whole-heartedly supporting the project, talks to BT about how we need to support our karigars in these hard times and how sustainability in fashion is the need of the hour. Excerpts...

Kareena, what makes a fashion icon like you step up and talk about an initiative like this,which supports our karigars?
We are in unprecedented times, and millions of people have lost their livelihood. This initiative is not just about financially helping our karigars; we are also giving them the credit that they deserve, because generally, it’s the designer who is at the forefront. Indian karigars don’t get the recognition they deserve. No one really knows what goes on in the backend, how much time and energy they put into one sari, lehenga or choli.

Actors from our movie industry are seen wearing the most fashionable clothes and finest labels. How do you think they can support the fashion industry, which makes them look so glamorous on and off screen?
Fashion is all about sustainability now. It’s a global conversation, and people are becoming far more conscious. India has such beautiful handlooms, textiles and weavers, but I have always felt that there is a lot of pressure on actors to ape the West. Award function hai ya red carpet, gown pehenna zaroori hai... jiska sabse bada gown hoga, that will be the best outfit. That’s so not true. I love wearing saris, it’s our national outfit. When Vidya (Balan) decided to wear a sari at Cannes, that was such a beautiful choice. We should be proud of what we make in our country. Honestly, I do feel quite stupid wearing gowns to red-carpet events, but sometimes, we come under the pressure of stylists, who say that it is fab. We also wear clothes from big designers from New York and Paris. Hopefully, after this life-changing phase, we will support things that are homegrown.

There is huge pressure on actors to turn up in fabulous outfits every time they appear in public. What do you have to say about repeating clothes on the red carpet, at award shows, and other events?
That’s what I mean, either you fall under the pressure of ‘Oh! she’s worn this before and now she is repeating it’, or not. I think it is totally fine and a classic look should be repeated on the red carpet. I mean, an iconic look with a simple black dress or a black sari can never go wrong. You can style it in different ways. If you are buying an expensive Chanderi silk sari, why would you not want to repeat that? Now, you can wear saris also in different ways and it is quite cool to do that. Like I said, falling under the pressure of which designer label am I wearing on the red carpet, so and so is wearing this, and I should be one-up and get something from Paris — honestly, I find that very tiring. I completely believe in the idea of recycling clothes and wearing them again and again. Everything doesn’t have to have a price tag and be brand new.

There is a gap in what we pay the designer for a garment and what the karigar eventually gets for his skilled labour. How do you think we can support the karigars and mend the massive financial gap?
Yes, there is a huge gap. They probably get a few hundred rupees to do their jobs on it. They have to support their entire families with that. So, the focus of this initiative is to mend that gap, give them recognition and financial help, and bring about some level of equality. When a designer walks the ramp, he is doing that because he is displaying his craftsmanship. So, why not give the weaver, who has worked for hours on a lehenga, that kind of credit, too? Artisans should be empowered to become entrepreneurs like the designers.

Manish D Mishra (DNA; September 4, 2018)

Laidback-yet-luxe, comfort-driven-yet-chic — that’s been style savant Shweta Bachchan Nanda’s sartorial approach. Over the years, she has shown an amazing ability to oscillate between a pared-down and minimal athleisure look for her flight time to a high-octane metallic look for an evening of glamour. While she’s always dressed to suit the occasion, she isn’t scared to take style risks, too. So, it’s not surprising to see ease and wearability translating into her new luxury prêt label MXS in collaboration with designer Monisha Jaising.

The collection, incorporating close to 52 pieces, exemplifies a sense of ease, a mix and match appeal and versatility. The duo wants their customer to be the stylist, play dress up and create her own look. The offering is a cornucopia of sporty glam separates, which can be paired with each other depending on one’s individual taste. Hence, a sequinned blazer can be teamed with a pleated skirt and a sweatshirt can be thrown on a pair of party pants and a shine-on jumper can be styled with track pants. I meet the tall and statuesque Shweta at Monisha’s Pali Hill store and she’s dressed in a pair of sweatpants, a comfy tee and trainers. Looking at her easy breezy style, it’s not hard to comprehend how the line marries her grown-up approach to fashion with Monisha’s timeless glam slam touch. Superimpose this synthesis with the all-pervading street cred and you’ve got a winner. Over to the style maven...

What does style mean to you?
For me, comfort is key. Style is something I actually don’t give much thought to, it’s just the way you put stuff together. It should appeal to your body type and you should be able to carry it off. There are a lot of things on the racks and I’m like, ‘Wow, that’s gorgeous, but I can’t wear that’. I think, in order to be stylish, you have to know yourself and you have to be comfortable in your own skin. For me personally, at 44, I haven’t been more comfortable in my skin than I’m today.

How do you interpret your personal style?
What you’re seeing right now — T-shirt and track pants. It’s something I can be comfortable in and during the evenings, I like to wear something elegant. Sometimes when I’m in a fun mood, I want to don something crazy. I love bling a lot (smiles).

What does luxury mean to you?
If I had to choose something between that’s handmade, handcrafted and an experience, I’d choose an experience. It’s the whole experience of when you pick up an item to how it makes you feel when you wear it only in the fashion space. Of course, there are other definitions of luxury. It’s something unique to you, which you can interpret the way you like. It should be versatile.

What’s your take on street influence on luxe fashion?
I love it. It means I can come to work in trackpants, I can wear trainers with a long skirt and that’s fine. So, you don’t have to be uncomfortable and squeeze yourself into stilettos anymore. You can wear Doc Martens with a short dress. I want more of it (smiles). Both Monisha and I are huge fans of street fashion. Of course, it’s something we feel isn’t around in India. There is a lot of high-end luxury stuff around and there’s low-end stuff, but there’s nothing in between. We wanted to cater to it, so it’s a little bit above high street. Since both of our aesthetics is about street style and when we are looking at stuff online, we look at streetwear, so that’s a natural evolution. That’s the way it goes.

How was the process of shooting the label’s campaign?
We sat down and had many discussions. It’s easy because like I said, today I’m comfortable in my skin and I know what I can carry off. I also know what my daughter can carry off. Even though she wasn’t here when we were thinking of it, I knew what I wanted her to wear and how I wanted her to wear it. Also, with this brand, if you sport one of our items, you don’t have to be fussy in terms of accessorising it. Our outfits speak for themselves. That’s what we’ve done in the shoot. We have not used any jewellery and we haven’t gone overboard with shoes or anything else. We’ve tried to keep it simple and showcased our clothes. I knew what would suit Navya and her body type. And I knew exactly how I wanted it to look and we both came up with clothes we’d like to showcase. Rohan Shrestha shot it for us. He’s a master at this kind of photography and he made us comfortable.

Half the time we didn’t even know we were being shot. We were talking and fixing our hair, he was shooting and he said, ‘I’ve got my shot’ and I think that translated very well. It’s relatable because we are not models and don’t aspire to be one. We come in all shapes and sizes. I’d like women my age to feel comfortable wearing what a 21-year-old would pick as well. I hope that came across well in the campaign. It is a bonafide label and we plan to have four to five collections a year. This one has close to 52 pieces and we are already working hard on our next one. We hope it’s well received. We have our fingers crossed.

Who are the style icons you admire?
There are a lot of lovely ladies in Mumbai itself who get it right all the time. Some of my top favourites are Tanya Dubash, Haseena Jethmalani and Priya Aswani. They are always so chicly turned out and never ever wrong. Whatever they buy, they make it work and accessorise it beautifully. They never overdo or underdo it. I love that. From a young age, I have seen my mother and through her, I met Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. During my summers, I would work in their factory and I have learnt so much about fashion from them. They’ve been training my eye while I was with them. This develops your acumen and you are what you learn.

Most people today love fashion and what’s wonderful is that it’s so accessible now. You can shop online. It’s wonderful. What I feel excited about is there’s finally an Indian designer catering to street fashion. You can step out of your house, come into our store and pick a piece of clothing, wear it to a party, maybe wear it to office or a beach. And finally, someone in India is doing it. Normally you run to ZARA or H&M. Today, hopefully, you can come to us (smiles).

Which city, according to you, is the fashion capital of the world and why?
Paris. I feel the most stylish people are Parisians. They wear the simplest things like a pair of blue jeans, a white T-shirt and a jacket and make it look so stylish.

Is there a Parisian undercurrent in the line?
The label is an amalgamation of all our exposure and travels. When you’re wearing a graffiti pencil leather skirt with a camisole, it has a French feel to it. Both of us have drawn from our travels.

Who are your favourite designers?
In India, it’s Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. Abroad, they keep changing — Alaia, vintage YSL. I love Gucci because they keep reinventing themselves. I loved them when they were with Tom Ford and I love them now. Prada used to be amazing.

Which era in fashion history appeals to you?
I am loving this time right now. I love normcore and athleisure because they are fantastic. It’s something everybody can wear. It’s not exclusive to a certain section of society.

How often do you shop?
I am a huge shopper. Sometimes it’s crazy shopping, like I’d buy something for a week online. Most of my shopping is online. Otherwise, I go for months without buying something. Online shopping has made it difficult not to shop.

RAPID FIRE

Vintage or Runway
Runway

Lamé or Velvet
Velvet

Black or Navy
Navy

Prints or Embellishments
Prints

Tuxedo or Gown
Tuxedo

Flats or Heels
Flats

Punk or Rock n Roll
Rock n Roll

Midi or Mini
Midi, I don’t wear minis. I’d love to, but I don’t (laughs)

Minimalism or Maximalism
Minimalism

Town or Country
Country


Shweta Bachchan Nanda with daughter Navya Naveli

Veere Di Wedding producer Rhea Kapoor reveals how it took a team of 10 stylists to curate the looks for the four female protagonists of the film
Mohar Basu (MID-DAY; May 18, 2018)

Given Rhea Kapoor's inherent love for fashion, it isn't surprising that her upcoming production, Veere Di Wedding, reflects her sharp style sensibilities.

Before the project went on floors, the makers invested a fair amount of time in curating the wardrobe for its four protagonists played by Kareena Kapoor Khan, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, Swara Bhasker and Shikha Talsania. Apparently, it took a team of 10 stylists two months to scout for and create distinct looks for each character.

Rhea reveals that the process of styling the four actors was divided into two phases. "When we started off, the brief was to create a young and contemporary wardrobe for each of these women. In the second stage, we had to take into account the style of each character - their outfits had to be unique to their personalities in the film," she says.

While she trusted her personal favourites - Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla - to dress up the ladies for the wedding sequences, the producer headed the 10-member-strong team of stylists for the remaining portions of Veere Di Wedding. The leads, she says, steered clear of interfering. "We were always open to feedback, but they trusted us blindly on this one." She credits director Shashanka Ghosh for being the perfect partner-in-crime. "Having worked together in the past, Shashanka and I can read each other's mind."

Nayandeep Rakshit (DNA; April 22, 2018)

Bollywood is looking forward to the big fat wedding of Sonam Kapoor with her beau Anand Ahuja. The who’s who of film fraternity is likely to grace the occasion.

Speculations are rife that Anamika Khanna will design the bridal lehenga. A source close to the actress tells us, “Sonam wants to wear Anamika’s outfit for at least one of the occasions. The designer is creating something beautiful for her muse.” The leggy lass is weighing out different options for the other functions, too. Adds our source, “Sonam is a huge fan of Ralph and Russo. For the reception, she might opt for them or Elie Saab. She’s also looking at some designs by Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.”

Her close buddies — Jacqueline Fernandez, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Karisma Kapoor and Swara Bhasker — are finalising their outfits, too. The quartet, who will be present at the mehendi, sangeet, shaadi and reception, are in talks with designers.

While Jacqueline Fernandez is opting for a Manish Malhotra design for the D-Day, Swara might settle for Manish or Abu-Sandeep. On the other hand, Bebo and Lolo, who swear by Manish, are yet to decide. Our khabri reveals, “Sonam and her friends are extremely close to all these three designers. Manish has been a family friend to the Kapoor sisters, whereas Jacqueline and he go a long way. As for Abu and Sandeep, they designed clothes for Veere Di Wedding, so it all falls in place.”

Manish D Mishra (DNA; October 11, 2017)

Big B is like a Hublot timepiece. He’ll always be en vogue. From his suede moccasins to the on-trend sporty sneakers, there’s a strong sense of evolved personal style and a distinctive personality he lends to every ensemble. Perhaps that’s what makes his every appearance such a talking point in the glamour galaxy. Stating that Mr Bachchan’s red carpet style has been the synonym for sprezzatura would be saying the obvious. There’s a charming insouciance which comes out in the way he pieces together any ensemble under the Sun. Effortless style which is ageless, season-less and trend-neutral — these phrases strike the mind when one sits down to dissect Amitabh Bachchan’s brush with fashion, which has inspired and continues to inspire actors, stylists, artists and everyone across the social spectrum.

Who can forget Mr Bachchan’s statement-making hoodie sweatshirt with a skeleton print he sported a while ago? This subversive look brought out the fun side of the veteran actor. He completed his look with a pair of black tailored trousers and matching loafers flashing a hint of his ankles.

He likes teaming his white pathan suits with the au courant bandis and completes his look with chic eyewear. He always owns the Indian kurta, pyjama look given his tall and towering frame. On the eve of his 75th birthday, After Hrs speaks to a few menswear specialist designers and stylists on his charming and inimitable style, which always manages to command attention and awe — whether he’s at a Hollywood soiree in a natty tux or channeling athelisure at the airport. He’s often gravitated towards designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s classic pieces, which bring out the best in him. He’s been seen cutting a fine figure in AJSK label on occasions like Diwali and also at fashion weeks. In fact, he had also chosen one of their designs on his 73rd birthday. One can always picture him draping an elegant pashmina across his kurta, looking every bit the Bollywood royalty that he is.

‘Mr Bachchan is the Style Evolution’ — Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Designers
Designer Abu Jani of the label Abu Jani — Sandeep Khosla says, “Mr Bachchan is the Style Evolution. He is a constant work in progress. And that progress isn’t dictated by anything or anyone on the outside, but is instead an expression of what and who he is.

Many moods, multiple avatars, all of which reside together in perfect harmony. From the classic to the avant-garde. Western, Indian, there are no boundaries or limits. It’s just one magnificent man having a lot of fun and looking fabulous while he’s at it. He is a designer’s dream come true. He possesses immense respect and regard for another person’s artistic talent and is always open to experimentation and doing things in an entirely new way. He’s a natural when it comes to carrying off the most elaborate ensembles and no matter what he wears, it is always the man who maketh the man. He owns it and the room. That’s what style is.

‘Mr Bachchan has always been an effortless style icon’ – Nachiket Barve, Designer
Designer Nachiket Barve, who’s worked with Big B on several occasions says, “His iconic looks in films like Deewar, Trishul or Don sparked off trends that trickled down to the streets over the decades. Off screen, he remains an enduring style figure who can sport a bespoke Tux, a bandhgala or even a kurta worn with the most elegant shawls with panache. His love for accessories, be it statement shoes or watches completes his style. Style becomes iconic when there is a personalisation of elements and when the person sporting it towers over the outfit. Mr Bachchan certainly epitomises this and continues to stand tall, literally and figuratively in the style stakes. I have had the privilege of dressing Mr Bachchan for some of his ad campaigns and his personal wardrobe. He has a sharp eye for detail, is extremely meticulous and most generous when it comes to trusting a professional to do their job well. I distinctly remember being nervous on set for the first ad campaign I styled for him, and him being so wonderfully supportive that it calmed my nerves down. Here’s an example of his process; I requested he carry an option for footwear from his wardrobe, and he brought along a couple of dozen shoes for me to choose from… for a shot that didn’t even have his feet in the frame. I always learn something new from him and his enthusiasm and professionalism is awe inspiring and such a brilliant inspiration!”

‘Amitabh Bachchan is a true style icon’ —Shiraz Siddique, Stylist
From the 70s to now, he’s always made a mark as the most stylish man. Stylist Shiraz Siddique says, “Amitabh Bachchan is truly a style icon. I feel style and fashion is not about what you wear only. It’s about your mindset and how you carry it. The way he looks at things — his spirit and enthusiasm is unmatched and so is his discipline and work ethics. He is inherently charged to make things so perfect. The way he carries himself, the way he dresses is inspiring. What strikes me about him is that he’s so young in his outlook to life in general which translates into his sense of fashion. I have worked with him in commercials and also as a costume assistant for Kabhie Khushi Kabhie Gham and Kabhie Alvida Na Kehna and he was amazing to work with. In 2015, I styled him for a Stardust cover, which was a memorable and enjoyable experience when he wore a white shirt teamed with a black bow-tie. I didn’t even get to do a trial with him but he was outstanding. We did six changes and finished the shoot in 45 minutes. He was polite and accommodating and never put his point across and pressured me. He is open to new ideas and always respectful. As far as his style evolution goes, he’s been very progressive and never looked dated in his sense of style. In KBC he looks like a 25 year old, looking natty with lapel pins and pocket square.”

‘A love of suits’ — Troy Costa, Designer
Troy Costa recalls shooting for HELLO! magazine with him. He says, “I did the HELLO! cover with him. The measurements came from his tailor and we created two looks and the fittings happened at his residence. It was perfect. His left shoulder is down by two inches and we knew that already and there were no alterations required and the shoot was like a breeze and he was fabulous. After he wore the second outfit, he took a selfie with me. This was two years ago and back then I didn’t even know how take selfies. He’s complimented me on how well the clothes fitted, he is a complete clothes horse and is in best shape. In the 70s, he was super lean and exuded swagger and now he dresses his age, very elegantly. It’s been a great evolution from 80s and 90s. He’s always been a lover of suits.”

‘Epitome of ageless fashion’ —Isha Bhansali
Stylist Isha Bhansali recalls Big B in a trucker jacket which he sported a while ago. “I loved it. He’s still got the perfect physique for a super stylish man. He’s the epitome of ageless fashion. Firstly, his swag with ounces of elegance is his biggest fashion statement, which l many of the younger studs don’t have. But I must say, he’s moved on with times. From bell bottoms in the 70s to the lush leather jackets in the 90s to the sharp tailored blazers (Agneepath) in the 90s, he’s definitely a fashion icon every man should idolise as well.”

Sonil Dedhia (MID-DAY; October 5, 2017)

Fifteen years after they enabled Sanjay Leela Bhansali to create the visual magnificence that he did in Devdas (2002) by customizing the celebrated outfits for Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Madhuri Dixit- Nene, couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are set to return to Bollywood with Veere Di Wedding.

It took a fair share of convincing, we hear, but, the National Award-winning designers have given their nod to create the traditional outfits for the wedding sequences of the Sonam Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor Khan and Swara Bhaskar-starrer. A source tells midday that the designers will scroll through archives to dig out their finest creations for the leading ladies.

Confirming the news to mid-day, Khosla says, “We haven’t worked on a film since Devdas because we have been busy growing our brand. So, we are excited to be part of this project. This was the ideal film for us to return with, because it revolves around a wedding; we love Indian weddings.”

Khosla heaps praise on producer Rhea Kapoor, who, much like sister Sonam, “knows a lot about fashion and styling”. With TV czarina Ekta Kapoor, who Khosla describes as “a trendsetter in television” also being co-producer, the designer acknowledges that there are several minds involved in the visual depiction of the sequences. “We have decided that we will work as per a brief that everybody agrees to.”

Given that the duo has been designing outfits for Kapoor since she made her debut in Saawariya (2007), Jani says the decision to return with this film was fitting. “Sonam has always been a trendsetter. This will be the first time we will be working with Kareena, and we are looking forward to it. We will be able to showcase some of our most amazing and elaborate designs,” say the duo.